Tel Aviv is the city that never sleeps, the start-up nation par excellence, the most secular and cosmopolitan of all the cities in the Middle East. Its dynamism manages to combine the memory of the past with the unstoppable ambition to offer itself every day to change, to bet, to the future. The question is: is Tel Aviv the vanguard of an Israel to come, or is it just a small island - a "bubble" as they say - within a country in constant conflict with its neighbors and beyond.